As a retired plumbing and electrical inspector with only city sewer hookup experiences, I can't speak to the holding tank question except to say that if your house has no leach field (drain lines buried in the yard coming out of the holding tank) the discharge from the washer could very quickly fill up a sewage holding tank, and what a problem that could be! In the old days, before modern codes, rural houses were allowed to have "grey water lines" to let sudsy sink and laundry water go out to the field separately from the solid waste disposal lines from toilets and baths. Not sure about the legality of having that kind of set up, now. Do you know if such separate drain lines were ever installed when they plumbed the house for a washer?
The other question would be: how big is the holding tank and how often do you want to have to pump it out? Nothing would be worse than having a big laundry load discharging, full throttle into the standpipe, and the holding tank is full, and it all comes back, all over the kitchen floor!
Hardware/lumber stores sell plastic trays to be set under washers for emergency overflow situations that have a cut-out place for an optional floor drain, to pipe away any overflow water. I used that kind of inexpensive tray in a wood floor bedroom with a washer, hooked up to the same exact set-up you show there, and it never gave a bit of problem, or overflowed, because the house had a traditional gravity drainfield out in the back yard.
Other things to verify:
*the supply lines have shut off valves that don't drip when the water is "on" and can be easily turned on and off by hand (some old ones get corroded and rusty, lock up).
*the wall electric plug serving the dryer needs to connect to wiring and a circuit breaker (or fuse if older house) big enough to handle the rated motor load of your electric dryer (I say this in case power lines were run for the laundry without someone knowing what size wire or fuses to use, as we have seen that happen a lot!) You check the amps listed on the nameplate of the dryer (back side of machine or inside a door) and make sure the machine will pull less amps than the rating of the circuit breaker that controls it, which also needs to be a "dedicated" circuit, marked in the main panel box as serving only that dryer. And the circuit breaker in the panel box must not be rated too large, either, (another common mistake made) or it cannot protect the wiring or the appliance. Check what the manufacturer's instructions call for; you can find them online (many such websites offer downloadable owners manuals even for older units).
*same advice as above for the electric receptacle plug serving the washing machine; it should be serving "laundry" only and the outlet/plug, wall wiring and circuit breaker in the panel box must all be correctly sized for the machine's amp draw, either too small or too large.
*your dryer's exhaust duct should be checked for how it gets the damp hot air outside, in as direct a line as possible, without any excessive bends that could collect lint, and confirm that it has been cleaned out and has a flap door on the outside where it goes through the wall, to keep critters from climbing up in there! I prefer hard sheet metal ducts to those flexible ones, because they don't catch lint and allow it to build up so much. Have seen dryer fires destroy old houses for that very reason!
*finally, my personal suggestiion: "babysit" your washer and dryer for the first several times you run clothes through them.If there is going to be any problem, you want to be there to catch it ASAP! So be within earshot, is what I would suggest, until you have confidence in how the machines will do their thing, there.
Just 2 months ago, my 10 year old stackable dryer that had been recently repaired with a new circuit board almost caught fire: the temperature inside the door measured 176 degrees F! I NEVER leave my old wooden house with a machine running, for just that reason, have seen too many disasters; that day, I went upstairs for 5 minutes to the far end of the 2nd floor. Came back down and heard a loud running noise, almost like that noise the spin cycle on the washer makes (but the washer was off). I went into the laundry room, stopped the very noisy dryer, and almost burned my hand on the lint basket!! We stopped using it that day and decided it would be safer to buy a whole new pair (stackables have to be the same brand, they told us). But imagine if I had gone out of the house for a "quick" trip to town.....it made me glad I have always been OCD about that safety "rule."
Well, I hope with all this, you won't think I am trying to worry you; I am just giving you some of the "standard operating procedures" off the top of my head, for these appliances, because if you've never used one in that house, you would want to know all these things, I figure. But I haven't been working in the field for the last 25 years, so take my advice for what it may be worth.
[This message edited by Superesse at 10:35 PM, October 13th (Saturday)]