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Ya. No water. Joy.

I do have a question at the end so bear with me.

Through watching videos amd talking to a contractor here i confirmed that the pump itself is ok. Power supply is ok. Pressure switch, however wasnt working as its supposed to.

Switch is all corroded and the part that moves below the springs isnt moving.

So new switch purchased.

Mistake #1. Already had a damn new switch hanging on the peg board above the work bench. Face palm!

So instead of waiting for wh to get home i figured id get it done myself...waaaaaaaaa why must Murphys Law be a thing....if it CAN go wrong it WILL go wrong.

Step one undo wiring (ya ya after killing power, did that yesterday so all good.)

Step two, unscrew switch from copper pipe that comes off T pipe.

This is where things went wrong. Instead of the SWITCH coming off, the copper pipe unscrewed from the T pipe. Usually NOT a big deal however i cannot get the copper pipe off the old switch...

Problem number one is that we had replaced the pressure tank and that tank is larger than old tank and it pinched the switch so that in order to unscrew it i ended up bending the sides. This happening on the old switch is fine but i can't do that with the new switch when screwing it on.. so

I require a smaller copper pipe piece that's threaded on both ends to attach back to the T pipe. One more trip to the store once wh comes home.

My question is does the length of the copper pipe that attaches the switch to the T pipe matter? I wouldn't think so...but im no pro lol

I have decided that we will be installing a water softener system with iron removing salt. That requires an entire re-piping of that whole section from where the line comes IN the house to where it attaches to the UV light. Fun fun. During that install i will move the tank over so theres no issue with the switch. Right now i just want water. And a shower.

Is it possible you're talking about a brass pipe nipple instead of a copper pipe? Either way, the length of the pipe nipple off of the tee to the pressure switch won't matter (within reason of course).

If you really want a shower, you can also use a galvanized pipe nipple for a short time if you have one in your stash. Just swap the iron pipe nipple for the brass one once you get it.

One other thing, you might try apply heat to the fitting connection to the switch via a propane or MAPP gas torch to see if that will allow you to loosen it.

Oh maybe its brass. I didnt think of using heat until later but that pipe was to long anyways so i figured I'd just leave it stuck lol

So update. There was another box of fittings on the top of shelves beside the work bench. Found the smaller size we needed and proceeded to install new pressure switch and replace the pressure valve.

It actually went pretty smoothly.

That should have been the clue that it was TOO easy lol

Restored power. Still no water. The control box clicks on and off non stop.

The next step was to test the control box.

We weren't sure how to do that so looked it up and no the capacitor didnt appear to have the right readings on the metre.

I bought a new control box the first time we had no water. Easy enough to do BUT....it could also be that the pump itself has seized. There IS a way to test that AT the control box BUT we had no clue how. No point buying and replacing the control box if its the pump.

3 years ago the pump failed. Called and got a small family well company to come replace the pump and the entire line from the pump into the house. I could not for the life of me recall their name and the paperwork we got was in the boxes of stuff destroyed in the basement flood when the hot water tank blew up

So i googled and found only one company in the small town where the company that helped us was, called and yes they remember us well. No pun intended.

They will be by tomorrow to confirm if its a seized pump or control box.

We have water!

Wh and i were still in bed when Little M woke me up saying a man was at the sliding doors lol

Well company showed up super early, changed out the control box amd boom, water.

He said we need to adjust the pressure switch from a 20/40 pressure up to 30/50. And we realized after he left that while we have water to the house the pressure tank isnt filling like it should. This is solely a pressure issue. The pressure in the line is less than the pressure in the tank so water is pushed past the tank.

Fun fun

Glad to hear you got it sort out.

Water wells can be a nightmare sometimes.

The pressure valve said we had 30psi in the lines, tank pressure adjusted and boom everything is working as it should.

Of course we have shitty pressure throughout the house, always have, except the sink in the laundry room. Pressure out of that tap could peel paint lol

We replaced the pipes leading to the kitchen and to and from hot water tank before but the entire house needs to be done. Just not sure if we should switch to PEX piping. I want to get it all figured out before we tackle installing a softener.

And yes water wells are a nightmare. Especially with the hard water here.

Well company said since we don't have good pressure throughout the house instead of trying to adjust the switch we have he is going to drop off a 30/50 switch for me.

Submersible pumps shouldn't be using a 20/40 switch and a 40/60 could blow a line in the house with older pipes.

Im wondering what the pros and cons to switching to a jet pump or running another water line into the well to a jet pump as back up are.

Dragon...you kill me...in a good way...in a unique way.

How many posters here could be so easily identified by a post entitled, “Anyone here on a well with submersible pump?”

[This message edited by WhatsRight at 9:03 AM, July 21st (Wednesday)]

Yep. Im an odd one for sure with my threads lol

I still need to install the 30/50 switch, calculate how much piping i need to install the water softener and decide for sure if i want to start switching over to PEX pipes from copper.

Fun fun lol